Mod Sub-culture
What is a Mod?
Mods were one of the first generations to be unaffected by war and the control of National Services in 1960s. A mod would usually be a young person in smart stylish suits and motor scooters (Vespa or Lambretta) with a liking for American soul music. These ways, the 'modernists' lived up to become a sub-culture.
What is the historical context of the Mod?
Dring 1960, Mods had remained undiscovered by the media, however they eventually emerged as a massive army, which they were transformed by wealth and education.
Wages improved after the war, and working-class families didn't need their children's financial support anymore. However, the youth became financially independent and suddenly had cash nowhere to spend.
The Education Act of 1944 improved the quality of schooling, and offered employment opportunities for youth of any status. These movements spawned a new generation of artists, designers and musicians, which helped them develop their own personal style.
Influenced by wealth and education, the Mode craze exploded across the streets of London. This was first discovered by the rise of retailers selling Mod clothing.
By this time, a new door was opening to the Mods. This male-dominated subculture shunned the minority of women. Although they remained a minority throughout the cult, they were often referred to by the males as 'birds'.
However, the Mods were soon disapproved by the
Rockers. This subculture was a youth of motorcycles occupied by figures dressed in leather from head to toe, studs and hair grease. The Rockers were the enemies of the Mods. Originally stemmed from
Rock and
Roll, Rockers were dirty and uneducated (greatly contrasting the sophisticated Mods).
They soon properly faced each other and broke into a riot during Great Britain's Easter Bank Holiday on the seaside of Margate. Seventy were arrested, who stated that they ended up this way because of boredom. Amongst the thousands that attended, seventy seems like a small figure. However, if anyone was unaware of the Mods before, there were no chances of escaping their presence now.
In 1965, the working class rebels who helped to create the original craze disapproved of their identifications and started to loose their interest. Wealthy pop aristocrats opened up their own clubs to feed off the popularity of the style. This pushed the original Mods to the side, who were left with their jobs. Furthermore, they were growing older, starting families and careers and establishing homes for themselves. The Mods were gradually shadowed by the hippies and the steadily-growing drug culture of the late sixties.
What are the ''fashions, mannerisms and music'' that ''signal... membership'' of this youth sub-culture?
In 1958, a small group of tailor's sons in East London developed a smooth and sophisticated style, combining Italian and French looks of the period. The suits were Italian, narrow lapels impeccably tailored for them. These were often worn with pointed-collar shirts. The shoes were hand-made winkle-pickers. The hair was styled short and neat, going along with the sophistication theme. This was heavily influenced by the lead of French film stars at the time. One old recipe includes sugar and water than took time to make. They sustained their 'cool' image by taking advantage of the Italian motor scooter transportation, as these were interestingly shaped and less oily than motor bikes, therefore damaging very little of their suits.
King's Road supported boutiques appealing to teenage girls and young women. Hemlines moved gradually up the leg, becoming miniskirts that famed London. Flat shoes were in vogue along with trousers and shirt or sweaters that resembled the girl's boyfriend. Mod females wore little makeup, limited to ordinary eye shadow and false eyelashes. This contrasted the males who payed much more attention to the eye shadow, eye pencil, lipstick and rouge.
Hairstyles were also influenced along the changes in clothing. They became geometric to compliment the clean lines of Mod's clothing designed by a famous fashion designer Mary Quant. Hair salons for men also began appealing, wanting to eradicate the use of sugar and water.
Soon,
Ready, Steady, Go! began airing on TV in 1963 (a British rock/pop music programme that aired every Friday evening). This opened up the latest styles, music and dance moves to the Mods. Clubs were still increasing in popularity, lead by
La Discotheque (the first venue to play records rather than have live bands). This went on to Mods leading active social lives, attending clubs two to three nights per week on average. One Mod described his week as:
“Monday was Totten- ham Royal, Tuesday the Lyceum, Wednesday the Scene or maybe stay in and wash your hair, Thursday Tottenham Royal again, then Friday night was Ready, Steady, Go! It got difficult to get in on that, so me and a friend used to get hold of an empty film can apiece and ride up and down the lift in the studios until it was time to go in, then we would just join the crowd. Then after, you’d go on to the Scene later. Saturday and Sunday was either a party or the Tottenham Royal, then the next week, you’d start again.”
To keep up with this mannerism, most Mods employed the help of amphetamines (these were legal at the time and were referred to as
purple hearts or
purpose, French Blues or
black bombers). This method was sometimes the only way to make it through the week.
In general, Mods were of working class, shop hands or office boys. This obsessive satisfaction was somewhat a way to escape the monotony and low status they had to tolerate in their workplace. This was the only way to achieve the material success promised by a wealthy and consumer society. Because they did not suffer the impact of war, they were unaware of the guilt and anxiety over their extravagance.
There were three general breakdowns of the subculture; the
Mainstream Mods, the
Scooter Boys and the
Hard Mods.
Mainstream Mods
This sub-group was the most effective on styles, but generally dressed in Italian silk suits with narrow lapels. Colours were often grey, black or brown, but sometimes red or green occurred. Drainpipe trousers were cut above the ankle to display Italian tasseled loafers for basket-weave casuals (usually with pointed toes). Ties were always thin and black, worn around the button-down shirt-dressed necks. Turtlenecks was another trend in wool or cashmere, as were crew-neck and V-neck sweaters and polo knit shirts buttoned to the throat. Horizontal stripes designed the fabrics along with razor-short hair and a black bowler to top it all off. Dark glasses were also sported to remain within the 'cool' image.
Scooter Boys
Scooter boys dressed more casually, such as anoraks and Army parkas for warmth. The shrink-to-fit Levis were common amongst the Mods, usually in black. Like the
Mainstream Mods, Scooter Boys also wore sweaters of wool or cashmere fabric, but instead paired these with plaid or checked trousers. Additionally, they customised their scooters, adding mirrors, head-lights and fog lamps around the handlebars.
Hard Mods
Skinheads originated from this sub-group. They were aggressive working class males who dressed themselves in jeans and work boots (often supplied by Doc Martins that were and are still currently producing work boots of exceptional strength and fit).
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Rockers' identity symbol |
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Mods' identity symbol
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